Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Billa Ain't no Hannaford!

Just a short anecdote today...

In a moment of desperation at 8pm on Sunday night, when we had nothing in the house for dinner, we bought prepared chicken and potatoes from Billa, our international grocery store.  It wasn't good.  In fact, it was very, very, bad.  Greg found a staple in the middle of one of his baby potatoes.  Seriously.  What can you do except throw it away, be thankful he didn't swallow it, and learn to never buy prepared food from Billa again?  

The desperation has reached the extreme.  Tonight we ate Big Macs, french fries, and shakes from МкДоналд'с.  Send food.  Send food now.  (But be sure to label it no value and "paper products" or we may spend half the day and $65 at customs to retrieve it, but that's a story for another day.)

And on that note, will you readers please leave some comments?  

Monday, September 22, 2008

Our first holiday weekend!

I have tried to convince Greg to take over as a guest writer, but thus far he has declined.  He's pretty swamped with curriculum work and lesson planning, but I'll keep working on him, since there has been some demand for his perspective.  

Let's begin this blog with a HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Suzanne, who celebrates her fun day in NY.  We can't wait to hear all about their trip!  Derek, one of the other international teachers, celebrates his birthday this week also, so we will be partaking in some birthday treats.  Birthdays are the best!

In school news, we began classes this week, and I have now met all of my students.  So far, they seem really smart and lots of fun.  I'm working on learning their names, which always takes me a few weeks!  I continue to be amazed by how "normal" I feel when teaching and hanging out on campus, as opposed to those moments when I realize that I have upended my entire life and moved my family to Bulgaria!  Kids really are kids no matter where we are.

School is pretty different from home though.  Teaching on a campus instead of in a building is great!  I love walking outside from the English building to the tech or admin buildings.  I love that we have a garden/parklike area, and that there is a quad to hang out in.  There is a freedom to working like this that is radically different and much nicer than feeling like punching a clock, and I think most staff members are happy enough here that everyone stays late by choice anyway.  Kids have a ton of freedom too.  We have block schedules (I will never escape the rotating block, so it's a good thing I love teaching in that style) where classes are 90 minues each (except on Mondays when they are shortened to 70 minutes each for school wide testing period.)  We get a 5 minute break in the middle of class and 10 minutes passing between classes.  It's great because kids never ask to go to the bathroom or get a drink.  Perhaps the biggest change is that when students don't have a scheduled class, they just have free time.  They are not required to report to anyone or be anywhere in particular.  Many hang at Onda, the coffee shop, in the lobby of my building, outside if it's nice, or the cafeteria.  I haven't seen any behavioral issues or vandalism and it's nice to see that they appreciate the trust and respect they have been given.  And finally, the last and most super-cool part of teaching at ACS, is that Arissa is welcome to come to school!  She spends most days in my classroom, although sometimes she visits Greg.  On preps we go play and walk outside, and during breaks between classes she gets tons of visitors.  Most kids love her (which is sometimes overwhelming for her, but she's adjusting.)  We like to stay late at school, and our departures will get later as extracurriculars get going in full swing, so it's nice that we don't have to rush home to walk her or feel guilty for leaving her alone all day.  We also feel better about going out at night since she has such fun days and we have spent numerous nights this past week just exploring downtown.

Last Thursday, we went to the park to the Italian Cultural Festival.  We had authentic pizza, wine, and of course, dessert!  There was a hilarious performance of pizza dough tossing that we captured on video.  I love that we can find these experiences here!  That same night, many of our colleagues attended the Snoop Dogg concert in Sofia - yes, that's right, Snoop came to town.  They said it was a blast.

This weekend is a holiday weekend for us, our only one until Thanksgiving.  Today is Bulgarian Independence Day.  (Don't be too jealous, we have Open House on Saturday, so we're still working 5 days this week.)  You should, however, be jealous that we got to take such an awesome trip this weekend.  We, along with 7 other international teachers, went to Serbia.  We had our first overnight train experience, leaving Friday night and arriving in Belgrade on Saturday morning.  We spent the day exploring the Old Town, the pedestrian shopping district, the Kalemegdan Citadel and park, and some interesting churches and statues.  

We stayed at the Hotel Moskva, a historic hotel located right in the center of the city.  I love the communist buildings!  

It was pretty cold and wet, so we stopped into a Rakia Bar for coffees during the day.  Saturday night we ate at a cool Serbian restaurant called ?.  Apparently, there was some controversy about 100 years ago when the church felt the name of the restaurant was blasphemous, and the owner, not understanding the issue, renamed the place, "?".  The name stuck and the place was great!  We sat at these crazy low tables that felt a bit like being in elementary school and tried some local delicacies like Ajvar, sort of similar to babaganoush, but made with red pepper base instead of eggplants.  There were more adventurous items on the menu, as you can see in the photo, but none of us ordered them.  

Later that evening we went to what we were told is the hottest club in Belgrade, called Anderground, which is literally underground beneath the citadel.  There was a Madonna karoke night going on, which was pretty hilarious.

Sunday we went to the zoo, where Greg befriended the elephant!  For a small zoo inside a city, this one was really impressive, and only cost about $6 to enter.  The animals, except those fiesty wild cats, had a ton of freedom and were able to interact with people.  We saw some wolves, one, as you can see in the video who was clearly making his own exercise or trying to visit his next door neighbor, we aren't sure which!  

We did a little souvenir shopping, my favorite purchase is the Yugoslavian money I got.  It seems, in the 90s, there was severe hyperinflation, the worst of any country in Europe.  To "help," the government issued notes as high as 500,000,000,000 dinars, making everyone an instant billionare!  Obviously, with the political strife and fall of Yugoslavia, the money is now worthless.  We read in the guidebook that it was worth more as wallpaper than money even when it was being printed.  The woman who sold it to me (I plan to use it to decorate my Christmas tree), congratulated me on becoming a "rich woman."  She was very cute and even posed with us for a photo.  

In other Serbian fun, we found a Lush, because they are truly worldwide except for Sofia!  They had 17 Cherry Tree Lane soap and gave me free samples of face masks.  Always a fun day when we find a Lush!  We stumbled upon some sort of bake sale where sweet little old ladies who spoke no English sold us slices of wedding cake for less than $2.00/piece.  There was the usual abuse of statues (though we refrained from abusing the HUGE images in front of the parliament, which you will understand based on the pictures), and we saw a really cool photography exhibit.  

We had coffee and a pre-dinner dessert at the cafe Rusky Tsar, walked down Skardarska, a bohemian, Montmarte-esque street, and ate dinner at Que Pasa, a bar/restaurant with great music!  (It inspired talk of an 80s theme party at pink house, one of the campus houses...costumes required!)

After another overnight train back, we arrived in Sofia around 8AM this morning.  We spent some time cleaning up and then hung out downtown a bit, buying some produce and other goodies from the street vendors.  I'm already planning my tour itinerary for when you guys all come to visit us.  The street vendors, yellow brick road, Onda, and park are on the list, as well as several other fun stops.  We still have some downtown exploring, as well as some out of town exploring, like heading up Vitosha Mountain so we know how to show you guys all that too.  Just one more note before I go study student names and prep for tomorrow - as I was typing this entry, we heard fireworks for Independence Day.  We could see the whole show right from our balcony!  I love when those moments sneak up on us!  

Monday, September 15, 2008

The first day of school

Boy has it been a busy few days!  We've spent the past two weeks gearing up for the first day of school, which was today.  Last Friday we had an all faculty BBQ at Tom's house.  As always, the social functions are fun.  I had a blast hanging out with his children and pets.  The big black guy is Floyd, a year old, 100 lb, Black Russian Terrier, and the little guy is Fred, who frequently appears around corners on campus and in buildings.  He always brightens my day!  










Yesterday was Greg's birthday.  We spent the day exploring downtown Sofia.  As you can see, Greg tried to bring home a new puppy for his birthday.  Fortunately, she found some other people to follow, because, cute as she was, there really isn't room for another pet in this apartment!  






Downtown we had lunch at a really cute place called Pastarant. 
 Some tasty Italian food...yum!  











There was fascinating people watching, 
and you can't beat the architecture, graffiti, and interesting shops in downtown.  We were excited to find some statues on a bench and paused to capture Greg with them, to continue our tradition that Andy began in Montreal. 
 






In the evening went out to the Radisson to watch some football with the other international teachers.  The Radisson is a big ex-pat hangout, so they have a more "American" menu.  Meghann and I ordered quesedillas, which had cheese and jalapenos in them, but there was no salsa available, and the "guacamole" was more lemon paste than guac.  Meg spiced hers up with some bloody mary!  
First, of course, 
we ate some homemade Boston Cream Pie cupcakes.  




















It's been cold and pouring here for the past two days; quite a big change from the month of hot, dry, sunny weather we'd been having.  Everyone says we will get Indian summer here, but in the meantime, jeans, jackets, sweaters, and umbrellas have come out in full force.  Luckily we got our "new" car, so we don't have to get soaked walking from the bus stop to school anymore.  






As promised, I have shot photo and video of the first day of school.  I've also added a few pictures of campus.  We have a fabulous garden in honor of a student, with a wishing wall, and swing.  The first day was such a blast!  
It began with an all school assembly where the new faculty was introduced and brought on to the stage in our communist-era auditorium. The kids stood and cheered!  It's a great welcome.  They also introduced the new "prep" class, the 8th graders entering the school.  Evidently, the preps are called rabbits, so as tradition dictates, carrots are thrown at them on stage.  A little crazy, but you can't argue with tradition.  



This fun was followed by an introduction of our block system, where the kids were divided up and the entire school was given t-shirts to unify their color block.  The preps wear white (nice symbolism, isn't it?), grades 9-11 are divided into 8 other colors (I'm yellow, Greg is green), and the seniors wear purple, the inverse of the preps.  In short, all year the teams will compete in terms of attendance, GPA, extracurriculars, sports, and special events, culminating in the team with the most points winning the "Black Cup."  For fans, it probably sounds reminiscent of Hogwarts, but remember, as this is Bulgaria, it's actually Durmstrang!  Many of the faculty jokingly refer to this as quidditch, and truthfully, it's been pretty fun so far.  

To kick it all off, our administration cancelled classes and held a mini-olympics today.  It rained on our parade, but was still a blast.  Kids competed in a three-legged race, potato sack relay, 
water balloon toss, 
tug of war, and mini-bicycle race among others.  Seniors were the refs, and everyone was invited to spectate all day.  Be sure to check out the video of the bike races crossing the finish line to the tune of "Chariots of Fire" - which even though our kids are so young, some seemed to recognize.

Tomorrow we begin teaching and get settled into routine.  Hopefully, the winner of the mini-olympics will be announced as well.  I start with a full day of 6 in a row periods 1-6 (out of 8).  Fortunately, the week gets better as it goes on, so I'll have some time to recover and settle a bit.  Though, as you may expect, my first unit is fully planned and copied, so I'm in pretty good shape - I just like to be prepared!  That will let me enjoy my 3 day weekend coming up - yay for Bulgarian Independence!  No plans yet, but hoping to go somewhere cool.  Definitely open to suggestions...which is my not so subtle way of telling you to leave comments, please.  In return, eventually, I will learn how to caption these photos...

We miss you guys...keep those emails coming!

Monday, September 8, 2008

Woefully negligent

Yes, yes, I know I owe you guys some pictures.  I promise, once things settle at school, I will be the queen of touristy dorks and take my camera everywhere!  In the meantime, I'm seriously drowning in paperwork.  Those of you who have taught with me, or have been witness to September, know how stressful this time of year is anyway.  It's exponentially more challenging without my technological resources (not sure when I became such a technophile), and an entirely new curriculum.  I'm putting in very, very, long days and hoping to have it a bit more under control by the weekend (which would be nice since school starts Monday for kids!)

We hear "everyone" (meaning the entire country, apparently) went hiking to the seven lakes this weekend.  Sadly, we missed it, but are hoping for more nice weather and a chance to go this coming weekend.  It seems the weather will turn pretty foggy, wet, and cold around here sometime in late October or early November, so we have to enjoy the countryside as much as possible while we can.  (This, of course, is in direct contradiction to my need to plan all my units as soon as possible.  I'm having to learn to let it go and plan as I get closer to needing stuff.  It's killing me.)  The weather has been incredible though.  Not a drop of rain since we arrived.  Sunny, cloudless skies and very, very warm.  I think we hit 30 today.  It's an odd experience to have weather warm enough to warrant open windows and to be able to smell someone burning a campfire (not sure where in the middle of the city, but ok.)

We had an interesting weekend.  We went with our neighbors to see Batman, Dark Knight.  It was in English with Bulgarian subtitles.  The theatre here is awesome, and usually empty, though I don't know why.  Apparently, most movies are in their native language with Bulgarski subtitles, which is cool for us!  We are studying Bulgarian every day, and we are both making progress with reading, but we're pretty challenged when it comes to speaking.  This is a very hard language!  

Last night I went to Taj Mahal, an Indian restaurant in downtown.  Now it certainly doesn't compare to Harish's house, but it was pretty decent, if a little expensive.  Not exactly the same as home, but pretty close.  And the best news is that they DELIVER!  (Though I'm warned it takes about 2 hours.)  We were also directed to several other good places to eat, which we will be trying over the coming weeks.  Don't you folks worry, by the time you come to visit, we will have scoped out all the great establishments.

I hear in news from home that my house was the place to be yesterday!  Apparently this was a successful open house, with much thanks to Alanna and Andy, and the generous neighbors who lent yard equipment and spyed for us!  So far, no news about offers, but we keep hoping. Expenses keep cropping up here that we didn't expect - all the things we thought we'd be glad to be rid of seem to be necessities, like a car and cell phones.  (Don't worry, we won't be calling anyone internationally!  Though I just found out if I put money on my skype account, I can call 800 numbers in the US for free - yay!)

Interesting fact of the day:  our neighborhood is called Mladost, which I learned means "youth."  It is a indeed a young, up and coming area.  I keep likening it to Park Slope of 10 years ago.  The construction and renovation is unbelievable!  And it is nearly impossible to walk down the street without being run down by beautiful couples with beautiful babies in strollers.  The people here are as gorgeous as we were told!  And on that note, it's nearing midnight here, so I have to get some sleep to be fresh for my Bulgarian lesson tomorrow...

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Out and about

Last night was the BBQ for the international teachers.  It was nice to get to talk to everyone a bit more.  Later on we went to a bar called Candle Bar, which was a former secret meeting place for Communist leaders.  It's down an alley and has no electricity.  The entire place is lit by candles.  Greg went with some people to a place called Mojito after, but I headed home with some neighbors.  I can't believe how exhausted I am after just one week of school and no students yet!

As of today, my classroom is still under renovation, so I have no place to set up and no computer at school.  The entire English and Science departments are in this situation.  Even our offices are under construction.  I'm not stressed about it at all, since I have been told it is perfectly fine to hold class outside.  Class rosters are supposed to come to us sometime next week, so then I will have to begin studying student names.  That part is always hard for me!  I'm still working on faculty names at this point.  

I'm also sure I should be studying my Bulgarian, but I'm so swamped with English work that I haven't had a chance.  I took a break from prepping today to rearrange the apartment and clean it, since it got a bit out of control last week.  It's funny how quickly Bulgaria has impacted us.  Small things are victories now, like getting laundry done without a dryer (king size sheets on a drying rack on our 3x2 balcony), cooking a meal and finding a place to wash and dry all the dishes, and finding a restaurant where the food is decent, cheap, and we can identify what we are eating is very exciting.  Of course, logging on to the internet to find messages from friends and family is a huge victory too!

It's pretty hot here today, and I'm hoping to spend some time outside.  Tomorrow I think I'm going downtown with Jess, while Greg and Steve go golfing.  Then the girls are all getting together for dinner while the guys watch Sunday night football.  Should be fun.  It seems there is plenty to do here and little time to be bored, which is good news for us since we haven't found a dog sitter yet, therefore, no travel plans to date.  We have a three day weekend coming up 9/20-9/22, and would like to go somewhere, but no plans yet.  People have been great about giving suggestions for where to go and how best to get there, cheaply!  It's neat to be in a place where all of our colleagues are here for the same reason and are so willing to share info.  

I promise, more pics are on the way.  I'll take some downtown tomorrow and then more next week when the renovations are (hopefully) completed.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

School begins...

Got my schedule today.  Mondays and Tuesdays I teach 6 classes straight through, but that means only 8 more classes divided up over the remainder of the week.  All in all, not too bad.  School is from 8:15-3pm, except on Mondays when we start at 8:55.  I have a ton of prep to do for my new books, but in spite of that, I'm pretty excited.






  
I have a gorgeous classroom in Ostrander, my favorite building on campus.  
I'm in a quiet hallway with a view of the quad, and Onda, the coffee shop, is right downstairs from me!  

Greg is located in Abbott, a really cool tech building that has a pretty sordid history as the former KGB wiretapping headquarters.  As horrifying as the stories can be, it is fascinating to hear about how our school was used during the Cold War.  To think it was closed down from 1942-1992, and was able to reopen so successfully is really impressive.

School will begin on 9/15, but classes won't start until 9/16.  We'll spend Monday having an all-school meeting to introduce our new block system.  It's Harry Potter-esque in that students are divided into "houses" and will compete all year through GPA, attendance, athletics, and special events for a winner's cup.  It should be a ton of fun and a great way to get to know kids here outside of class.  To kick it off, we're having a mini-olympics, where they have promised some hilarious events.  I'll be sure to update and hopefully add some pictures next week.

Today was our first offiicial Bulgarian lesson.  I find the language really challenging, but I'm determined to learn to communicate with people and to be able to read.  We will be able to attend lessons during our prep time all year, which is such a great opportunity.  Hopefully I will be able to get ahead of the game with my prepping, staying on top of my grading, and be able to use some prep hours to take lessons.  People are very nice and patient with us, but it's hard to order mystery food at a restaurant!  Tonight we ended up with a crazy combo of an appetizer that was potatoes topped with sliced ham and melted cheese in a butter/milk sauce followed by some approximation of a Chinese sweet and sour chicken with fried rice dish.  We had no choice but to just point at the menu and hope for the best since we couldn't read it and our waitress spoke no English.  

Speaking of food, the list grows for items unavailable to us here.  We're missing maple syrup, buttercream frosting, baking powder, light brown sugar, beef or chicken broth, myoplex bars, chocolate chips, any pure extracts like vanilla or almond, black beans, ranch dip mix for my yogurt and lettuce.  I'm sure there are many more things that will come up as we keep shopping.  Pet food is particularly expensive, as is milk, averaging at about 4 times the price of those items at home.  Other things, like produce, particularly cucumbers, carrots, and red peppers, are very inexpensive.  

I'm off to watch some CNN.  Ciao, ciao!


Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Our first week

We have now been here exactly one week as I realize my friends at home are arriving at school for their first day.  Funny how this 7 hour time difference works.  So far we've had many surprises, most pleasant.  We live in a really nice flat, in a pretty cool neighborhood.  It takes about 30 minutes to walk to school from here. 

 We've met all of the other new faculty as well as most of the returning faculty and
everyone is really nice.  Campus is great - we can't wait till the renovations are 
complete and we can move there.  Arissa is definitely much happier on campus than off.  There are stray dogs everywhere, but at least on campus she can run off leash and there is much less traffic.  

We've had a great trip to Greece to apply for our visas.  We got to see the mountainous southern region of Bulgaria and swim in the thermal mineral springs.  We also got to visit the Rila Monastary.



We've had many great meals, including the ubiquitous shopska salada, which is
 chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, and grated feta cheese.  The tomatoes here are amazing!  It's a lovely way to begin a meal.  It seems there are many great places to hike and see within driving distance, so we are considering getting a car.  We're also talking to others about where they have been as we create our travel must see list.  

School started yesterday, though students don't return until 9/15.  We are grateful for the time to adjust to a new school and a new country.  So far, the faculty and staff are wonderful and it seems like our instincts were right on about this being a great place to work.  There are fantastic traditions in which we hope to participate including throwing a Thanksgiving dinner for the Bulgarian staff, who in turn throw a St. George's Day party for us in the spring.  We will also have opportunities to take Bulgarian language and folk dancing lessons.  Pictures and video will certainly be posted for those!