Gypsy Feet: Havana

"Charm is a product of the unexpected."

--Jose Marti

To know my dad is to know that he's been telling travel tales since I was a child. I grew up hearing about trips to Montreal, Puerto Rico, Hawaii, Mexico, and Venezuela. No surprise that I, too, have gypsy feet. For all his traveling (and the many people he knows everywhere), the one place still on Dad's bucket list was Havana. He was planning a trip in 1961 that never came to fruition, and now finally, nearly 60 years later, serendipity and spontaneity made it happen. Cuba's always been on my list too, so this trip was a special one for all of us.

We opted to stay in Havana Vieja for our first 4 days so that El Jefe could experience the old city and classic cars. We lived with a lovely family, Leyanis and Yomanis, and got a chance to have the full sensory experience that Cuba has to offer. From the early morning calls of the fruit sellers to the afternoon thunderstorms, from the smell of freshly baked bread at the panaderia to home-cooked meals, we got a sense of life in the city. (You can click on any picture to view a larger image.)

Havana is a place filled with color and life. People (and pups) are super friendly. They were more than happy to pose for pictures. I was pleased to learn from one of our tour guides (we took the free city walking tours which were great) that local businesses "adopt" the dogs, promising to care for them. You'll see that this first pup is wearing a tag advertising her name and asking people to be kind to her.

Sadly, we didn't get any pictures of our favorite dog, who we named Verde for the green stripe of paint across his fur. He joined us for dinner one night in the middle of a storm and then followed us home. But here are some other furry critters we met.

And here are some of the people we met:

Our tour guide, Beatriz.

I was taking this little one's picture when a neighbor noticed me.

He smiled at me and encouraged the little guy to pose.

Well done!

Tasting molasses at the Museo del Ron

"El Bardo" hopes to be a YouTube star someday. Be sure to watch his video below.

We rode in classic cars and were amazed by how Cubans repair and recycle everything! We also saw lots of propaganda and homage to the revolutionaries. We admired the architecture and were awed by how the light played on the buildings. This place is truly a feast for the eyes.

This statue of Jose Marti was a gift from the artist. It is the only monument of him on his horse. The identical original stands in Central Park.

The art deco Bacardi building. Bacardi rum was originally a Cuban company, but relocated to Puerto Rico when Cuban nationalized businesses.

St. Francis church and pigeons putting on a show.

Anna had Dad's number real quick - she told him that at 41, she was too old for him, hahahaha.

Vedado skyline from the Malecon in Havana Vieja

University of Havana

The juxtaposition of old and new is sometimes shocking. Gentrification is happening fast here.

This statue is a tribute to the indigenous people of Cuba. An Italian sculptor was commissioned to create it, and having never seen an "Indio," he made the woman look Italian.

The entrance to Chinatown, or Centro Havana, where there are no Chinese people. They all fled during the revolution.

A church where you can see the African icons hidden amongst the Catholic icons. We observed a woman practicing an African religious ritual that involved hurling raw eggs from the balcony onto the street to rid her family of evil.

In addition to throwing eggs, people also throw sunflowers as a sacrifice.

The art throughout the city is amazing!

This picture, and the rest below, were taken at La Fábrica de Arte Cubano, part nightclub, part art gallery, bar, restaurant, gathering place. I wish NYC had something like this!

I'm so glad we saw Cuba now - a glimpse of what it was and what it will be all rolled into what it is at this moment. It's not an easy place to travel, but it's so worth it. And contrary to the tales we heard of the food being boring, we ate some great meals, particularly at O'Reilly 304, and of course, at our casa. We even found gelato and the famous Coppelia ice cream.

Cuba is hot and humid in August--hotter than anywhere else we've been,-- but we were lucky to be there this month because it is Carnival in Havana. No one was able to explain why it takes place now, but it was fun watching the preparations.

My favorite part of the whole trip was watching the sunset each night. Last year I fell in love with the African skies - they have a vastness that made me feel at home. I love the skies in Cuba just as much. The color, the clouds, the light - the skies here inspire me.